The Kviratskhoveli church stands in Gremi, below the hill with the royal citadel. It is a separate village church, not part of the fortress ensemble, and it stays away from the flow of visitors.
Gremi was founded by King Giorgi of Kakheti in the second half of the fifteenth century and flourished under Levan of Kakheti, when it stood on the Great Silk Road and counted tens of thousands of inhabitants. The army of Shah Abbas destroyed the town at the start of the seventeenth century, and the capital later moved to Telavi. Today Gremi is a small village in the Intsoba gorge, sixteen kilometres from Kvareli.
Keep a restrained manner: for nearby villages this is a working place of prayer. The site remains part of the everyday life of the area, and that deserves respect.
Tips
- Come in the morning while the light is soft.
- Check the forecast, as rain makes the approach slippery.
- It is better to leave a dog outside.
Getting there
- The last stretch runs along a dirt road that softens after rain.
- Plan the visit together with nearby stops, as there is no dedicated transport here.
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