The church of the Kviratskhoveli feast stands in Zemo Alvani, at the foot of the ridge beyond which Tusheti begins. Kviratskhoveli, the Sunday feast of renewal, has given its name to many village churches of Kakheti and is among the most common dedications in the region.
Zemo Alvani lies on the edge of the Alazani plain, east of Akhmeta, at the entrance to the Pankisi gorge and on the way to the Abano pass. The village serves as a winter base for Tush shepherds who move their flocks each year between the summer pastures of Tusheti and the winter pastures of Kakheti. It is also home to the Bats people, the Tsova Tush, who resettled from the mountains in the century before last.
Enter quietly if the door is open, and do not disturb those at prayer. The site remains part of the everyday life of the area, and that deserves respect.
Tips
- Combine the visit with neighbouring villages to save time.
- Bring a torch if it is dark inside.
- There is no need to touch candles or icons.
Getting there
- Ask locals for directions, since the short way is not always obvious.
- The last stretch runs along a dirt road that softens after rain.
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