Khalde and Ushguli: 2-Day Trek to Svaneti Towers 2026

Svaneti is a region of modern Georgia, once it was a separate country. Despite its tiny size, Svaneti was an independent state. The ancient Svan people, living in this region, he was always ready to fight for his freedom to the end with the enemy, whose forces at times outnumbered their troops. The militancy of the Svans can be judged by the fortress towers, which are still preserved in their settlements and are considered very valuable and interesting architectural monuments.

The region has long attracted tourists and travelers. There is a village of Halde in the community of Kale – it is from there that our journey to Ushguli will begin. But first, a few words from the history of this village, which is currently almost destroyed.

Historical background

As you know, Georgia became part of the Russian Empire at the very beginning of the 19th century. However, this decree of Paul I did not fully affect Svaneti. In this region, the final establishment of general laws was completed only in the 70s of the 19th century. When the inventory of livestock and land began in the village, the local population opposed this, expelled officials from the village, and all roads and approaches to the village were dug up.

After a while, a battle took place in the vicinity of the village: armed Svans settled in the towers, and the troops fired at them from cannons. According to sources, 50 Svans took part in that battle, and the battle itself lasted six days. The result of that confrontation was the almost complete destruction of the village.

Modern realities

In Halda there are a couple of houses and a small cafe where you can stay overnight. One of the interesting points is that there is a portrait of I.V. Stalin hanging in this cafe. According to the estimates of tourists who are in love with Svaneti, Halde is one of the most beautiful places in Georgia. The village is quite close to the glacier and looks very picturesque against its background.

Note. If you decide to visit this place, just in case, bring warm clothes with you. Due to the proximity of the glacier, the local night may be unexpectedly cool.

Day 1

The path along which we are moving to the side Ushguli, it starts right here, and it is located at an altitude of more than 2000 meters above sea level.

Reference. Local settlements are considered one of the highest located in Europe among those in which people live.

After passing through the Haldechala gorge, we will find ourselves at the river, which is crossed by a small bridge. Our way lies to the northeast, after about three kilometers we will find a small local hotel. You can have a snack either in it, or arrange a rest in nature. Fortunately, there is an opportunity to collect firewood in the vicinity, as well as to get clean mountain water – a stream flows nearby.

Day 2

It will be somewhat more difficult than the first day – you will have to gradually climb up. But don't let that scare you. At the pass, a unique view of the landscape of the peaks of the Caucasus will open, there you will be able to see the majestic Elbrus, the two-headed mountain Shkhara and Ushba, which, by the way, is often confused with Shkhara. Now, gradually descending along the ridge, we will get to the village of Ushguli, which is often called a village. In fact, Ushguli is a community that includes four villages at once: Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murkmeli.

What to do in Ushguli?

For curious and active tourists in the community of Ushugli there are many sights of Georgia that you just need to see. Let's not hide the fact that there are some travelers who just... they don't do anything. The sense of reality in these parts may change somewhat. Even for a while. The "fault" is the purest alpine air.

Ushugli is listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Register, because the monuments of ancient architecture in the vicinity of local villages have been preserved in very good condition. First of all, it is recommended to visit the Church of Our Lady in Ushguli. Its other name is the Lamaria Church. For lovers of sacred, religious places, Ushguli is a kind of find, because there are quite a lot of churches here.

The Church of St. Barbara and the Savior in Murkmel.

Church of the Savior in Chvibiani.

The Church of St. George in Zhibiani.

Those who are more interested in military affairs can explore the local towers.

Reference. According to one version, the main purpose of the towers was protection from blood feud. It is believed that more Swans became victims of following this custom than from clashes with an external enemy. Intergenerational blood feud could last for years.

There is also an ethnographic museum in Ushguli. It is interesting not only for its exposition, but also for the fact that it is located in a private house – the time of construction is the 16th century. The things that are collected in it are related to that era, and the ticket price is 5 lari.

There is no public transport in Ushguli, so if you decide to get here, you will have to hire a car yourself. But there are cafes and several family hotels here, which removes the questions of where to stay in Ushguli.

Local features

When visiting Ushguli, the mentality of the Svans should be taken into account. They may seem gloomy, cold and unfriendly compared to other residents of Georgia. In fact, this is not quite true. Closeness is part of the mentality that was formed under the influence of historical reasons and cultural characteristics.

Read also

• Datvijvari to Tbatana: 60 km Caucasus Trek 2026
• Ushguli: What to See in High-Mountain Svaneti